Cerro El Mocho – North face

9. Greetings from Bad Men

400m 6a 95°

Jörn Heller and Robert Jasper (Germany), 14/11/1994.

Description. For the first four pitches climb an ice gully that starts to the right of Frader Pisafe, which it joins for one pitch (pitch 6), then continue left for two more pitches to reach the summit snowfiled. The third pitch is a very narrow goullote that overhangs to 95°. Nine pitches total.

History. Heller and Jasper climbed the route in 5 hours.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Descend via Frader Pisafe.

Bibliography. Alpin magazine 1995/3 p. 8-9; High 152 p. 14; Klettern 1995/6 p. 37; Vertical 78 p. 49; Climber magazine 5/95 p. 7.

Photos (click to enlarge)

El Mocho - north face

El Mocho - north face