Cerro El Mocho - South face

12. Back to the Front

400m 6a+ A4

Steve Gerberding and Jay Smith (USA), 2/1992.

Description. A very steep and imposing line, that unfortunately has rock that at times is sandy (you start placing a thin LA and end up placing a thick angle ...). In spite of being short it is proper bigwall route. There are two or three bat-hook moves on pitch 9.

History. They had hoped to try a new line on Cerro Torre’s south face, but discouraged by the lack of continuous features and the apparent need of a considerable amount of drilling they turned their attention to El Mocho’s unclimbed south face. They fixed the first five pitches and then climbed in one day from De Agostini to the summit.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. If you plan to descend the route you will have to fix the last two pitches because they overhang too much to allow normal rappeling.

Bibliography. AAJ 1992 p. 164-172; Desnivel magazine 73 p. 79.

Photos (click to enlarge)

El Mocho - south face