Aguja Rafael Juarez- North ridge


3. Piola-Anker


350 m 6b+ C1

Daniel Anker and Michel Piola (CH), 6/1/1989.

Description. Climbs a line that starts right from the col between Poincenot and Innominata, the Forcella SUSAT. From the col, five pitches up obvious cracks on the north face lead to a big ledge and the upper east face. Here a short pendulum is required to climb into a steep crack that leads to the summit. The route can be climbed almost all free. Good rock.

History. During that visit Piola and Anker waited for good weather in the Piergiorgio valley for about a month, until they run out of time and had to go home. The day they were supposed to leave they changed their minds, and decided to stay an extra ten days. During those ten days, and in spite of mostly bad weather they climbed four new routes, an impressive one on Poincenot, a very enjoyable one on El Mocho, plus one on Guillaumet and this one on Innominata. The name of the article Piola wrote for Mountain Magazine back then was “Patagonicos Desesperados”, a name that likely explains well the frustration they so successfully channeled into such a ferocious spree of activity.

In February 1958 Italians Cesare Maestri and Luciano Eccher reached the Innominata-Poincenot col while exploring possible climbing routes in the area. They christened it “forcella S.U.S.A.T.” in honor of the university climbing group they belonged to, the Sezione Universitaria Società de Alpinisti Tridentini.

Approach. Polacos to Forcella SUSAT.

Descent. Via the Anglo-Americana route.

Bibliography. Mountain 130 p. 20-25; Vertical 32 p. 28-37; AAJ 1990 p. 206-209.

3.1 De Klerk - Brugger

Andy De Klerk (ZA) and Julie Brugger (US), 14/2/1991.

Description. From the top of pitch 5 on the “Piola-Anker” route move left and climb a dihedral for four pitches (6a+), thus avoiding the aid climbing section on the “Piola-Anker” route. Excellent climbing.

3.2 Bonapace - Hevia

Tommy Bonapace (AT) and Julian Hevia (ES), 24/1/1995.

Description. From the big ledge half way up the Piola-Anker (seventh pitch) climb up and right heading to the summit via a crack system up the NE arete. It involves many thin cracks –pitons needed- with difficulties to 6b+ and A2. It is unclear whether the crack system taken by the first ascensionists is to the left or right of the arete/pillar's edge. Tommy and Julian found the difficulties on the first few pitches not very similar to those given by Piola and Anker, so it is unclear if they were climbing on the same line or not. At least they covered 150 meters of new terrain, if not more. They rappeled via the route of ascent.

Bibliography. Gipfelstürmer, Innsbruck Austria 1996 p. 21.