Aguja Rafael Juarez - North face


4. North face routes

4.1 Artebelleza
4.2 Como no!
4.3 Tiempo para la Playa
4.4 Blood on the Tracks

4.1 Artebelleza

300m 6c

Anke Claus and Carsten Von Birckhahn (Germany), 16/12/2002.

Description. Climbs six new pitches on the north face, to join either the Piola-Anker route or the De Klerk-Brugger variation to the Piola-Anker route for the last four pitches (400m altogether).

History. Bean Bowers was the first to free the six new pitches of Artebelleza, but was forced to retreat one pitch shy of the summit, along the De Klerk-Brugger variation. In 2004 John Dickey and Josh Gross linked those same two lines free all the way to the summit.

Approach. Polacos.

Descent. Rappel via the same route or descend the Anglo-Americana.

4.2 Como No!

200m 6a C1

Jon Walsh 02/2005.

Descritpion. This is a four-pitch alternate start to Artebelleza. Climbs an obvious right facing corner to the right of a large buttress. Artebelleza climbs the corner of the opposite side, east side. Both Artebelleza and Como no! join the Piola-Anker or the De Klerk-Bruegger variation for the last four pitches to the summit (450m altogether). Walsh guesses that the route could go free at 6c and describes it as “highly recomended.”

History. After fixing two ropes Walsh ropesoloed the climb in a 12-hour push to complete the first solo ascent of this tower.

Approach. Polacos.

Descent. Rappel via Artebelleza or descend the Anglo-Americana.

4.3 Tiempo para la Playa

180m 6c C1

Mikey Schaefer and Kate Rutherford (USA) 2/2012.

Descritpion. Climb the first three pitches of Como No!, then climb five very steep pitches (very wide initially) to join Blood on the Tracks on sixth pitch (450m altogether). Although wide the crack line looks stunning.

Descent. Via the same route.

4.4 Blood on the Tracks

350m 7b

Freddie Wilkinson, Paul Tureki and Dave Sharratt (USA), Taki Miyamoto (Japan), December 2005.

Description. Climb the first two pitches of Como no! and where that route climbs left, to an overhang, traverse slightly right to the left side of a shaded triangular roof and then climb straight up, following a steep and continuous crack system close to the right edge of the north face. The last pitch is in common with the Bonapace-Hevia variation. The route is characterized by steep, clean crack climbing and is quite sustained. Pitch nine is the free climbing crux, after which the route eases into 6b terrain. 11 pitches total (450m altogether).

History. After the first ascent, Miyamoto, Sharratt and Wilkinson returned to free-climb the route. It has been repeated since, including other free ascents.

Approach. Polacos.

Descent. Via the same route.