Aguja Saint-Exupery - Southwest face


7. Last Gringo Standing


350m 6c+

Toby Grohne and Jesse Huey (USA), 3/2008.

Description. Climbs three perfect cracks pitches to a dike (6b), where a 20-meter long traverse left (6a) gives access to a four-pitch long crack system that leads to the ruta Austriaca (550m altogether).

History. Huey spotted the route with Mike Pennings, climbing three pitches of perfect cracks to a dike, where they discovered enough holds to allow a 20m leftward traverse to a second crack system, which promised to lead to the upper ridge. Later Huey returned with Grohne free-climbing everything except for one icy crack, and joining the Austrian Ridge after seven pitches. They bivied at the notch between the false summit (Punta Cristina) and summit. The name of the route refers to the fact that they were the last foreign climbers to leave the Albergue Lago del Desierto campground that season.

In 2016 Jumbo Yokoyama and a partner free-climbed the route at 6c+.

Approach. Polacos to Col de los Austriacos.

Descent. Via the Austriaca or Chiaro di Luna.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Saint-Exupery southwest face

Saint-Exupery west face