Aguja de l'S - West face


6. Thaws not Houlding Wright


900m 6b

Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw (GB), and Cedar Wright (US), 3/2004.

Description. This route climbs a broad buttress to the right of the obvious couloir (Jugo de Hielo). The initial 500-meter "approach" involves moderate rock climbing up easy slabs somewhat reminiscent of the Royal Arches in Yosemite. Once the upper headwall is reached, climb a series of cracks to the left of a prominent red streak to reach easy ground leading to the south summit of Aguja de l’S, from which one must down climb the 5.9 mantle to then traverse the ridge line to the higher summit. The first ascentionists describe it as a truly enjoyable moderate route.

History. It was climbed in one day round trip from the valley floor.

Approach. Before Niponino.

Descent. Down the via Austriaca along the north ridge.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja De l'S west face

Aguja De l'S west face