Aguja de l'S - East face
4. Austríaca
350m 6a 50º
Hans Bärnthaler and Ewald Lidl (Austria), 5-6/11/1987.
Description. A beatiful little climb, well worth the walk. One of the best introductory climbs in the area. The first ascent was done from the east, from Laguna Sucia and involves climbing easy snow (50º) right of the east face to an obvious corner (three rock pitches, to 6a) and a broad shoulder just above the Col de los Austriacos, between de l’S and Saint Exupery. From the shoulder another four pitches take you to the summit (150m 5+). It is also possible to climb the route from the west, from Polacos camp, accessing the Col de los Austriacos via a long couloir that slashes across the base of the west face of Exupery (300m 3 45º). A short pitch (4+) from the col gives access to the shoulder and the upper part of the route.
History. During the same trip the first ascentionists also completed the first ascent of the south ridge of Saint Exupery. The route has yet to see an ascent wearing rollers skates and boxing gloves but a number of climbers are said to be training for it, focusing particularly on their blogging skills to ensure that such a ground breaking and inovative ascent gets all the publicity and attention it will rightly deserve. Solo Ascents. Charlie Fowler (USA), 15/1/1996, from the west. Colin Haley (USA) in 2011 also from the west. Josh McClure (USA) in 2012, as part of a solo link-up of Saint Exupery and Aguja de l'S (18 hs round trip from Polacos to Polacos. Likely there have been more solo ascents that have gone unreported.
Approach. Laguna Sucia or Polacos.
Descent. Descend via the same route.
Bibliography.
First ascent: AAJ 1988 p. 175.
Fowler: AAJ 1997 p. 253; High Magazine 164 p. 31.
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