Cerro Adela Sur - East face
4. Filo Este
1200m 70º
Jorge Aikes, Nestor Mónaco and Omar Pellegrini (Argentina), 2/3/1967.
Description. The route involves mostly moderate terrain, with a few short sections of ice to 70º in the lower part and some tricky cornices on the upper ridge. Initially it follows a line on the right side of the east ridge to then climb a couloir on the northeast face and follow the east ridge proper higher up.
History. Aikes, Mónaco and Pellegrini started from Niponino and summited after two bivouacs, one of which was made right under the summit.
Approach. Niponino.
Descent. From the Trento col (Adela-Ñato) to the east or traverse the west face of El Ñato to paso Doblado (Ñato-Doblado), then to Paso Tunel (Solo-Grande) and back to De Agostini.
Bibliography. La Montaña magazine 1967/9 p. 23-26, p. 56-57; AAJ 1969 p. 447-448; Anuario CAB 1979 p. 19.
--
4.1 Variante Rumana
In 1/2018, Romanians Vlad Capusan and Török Zsolt climbed a variation on the middle section, up a steep wall which involves six pitches with difficulties to M5+ and WI4. The ascent took them 17 hs from Niponino to the top, with one bivy on the descent, which they did via a fairly dangerous line to the north.
|
Photos (click to enlarge)
Cerro Grande, Cerro El Ñato, Cerro
Adela Sur, Central y Norte - east face |