Aguja Standhardt - West Face
8. Otra Vez
500m 6a A1M 90°
Maurizio Giarolli, Elio Orlandi and Ermanno Salvaterra (Italy), 22-25/9/1989.
Description. Starts from a point less than 50 meters below the Standhardt col –rap or down climb. After a couple of pitches a rappel gives access to a wide ramp that slashes across the west face. At the end of this the route climbs up, to reach the summit ridge right before the first mushroom. It has been repeated only once, and during that repeat a number of variations were climbed.
History. Giarolli, Orlandi and Salvaterra were hoping to try the Torres traverse, but a dropped haulbag near the summit of Standhardt cut their dreams short. They climbed the route alpine style making three bivies, one at the end of the lower ramps (pitch 9), one at the top of pitch 15 and a last one below the summit mushroom.
Regarding the name they wrote in Lo Scarpone, “The Patagonian weather played with us ‘otra vez’. Then... the haulbag is gone, the cold makes itself felt, who knows where are now our sleeping bags... The summit of Punta Herron... our magic wall tent... ohh the cold feet... the clean socks... what a cold bivouac... one mistake... even the cigarettes... the long night of the hawks... the descent... otra vez!!!”.
This route had been attempted by Swiss Martin Moosberger and Thomas Wüschner who in 1984 managed to climbed to the top of the ramp, some 200 meters below the summit.
Salvaterra together with Alessandro Beltrami, Mirko Masè, and Fabio Salvadei repeated the route in 2007 during an attempt to complete the Torres Traverse. This time, with no dropped haulbags Ermanno managed to climb over Standhardt, Herron and Egger, before retreating down the east face of Cerro Torre.
Approach. Niponino to Col Standhardt.
Descent. Via Exocet.
Bibliography.
Giarolli et al. AAJ 1990 p. 210; Lo Scarpone 1990/4 p. 7; Alp magazine 58 p. 19; Alp magazine 62 p. 21-22; Annales GHM 1990 p. 53; Bolletino SAT 1990/2 p. 46-48; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1990/4 p. 68-69; Rivista della Montagna 116 p. 15; Desnivel magazine 53 p. 25.
Mooseberger et al. Mountain magazine 114 p. 12; AAJ 1985 p. 241. |
